How Do I Paint Interior Hardwoods?
Treating wood can be a minefield with so many products to choose from - not to mention the array of characteristics found in different types of timber.
Typically more care is needed with softwoods due to weaknesses like knots, splits, lack of durability, blue stain, etc, but the tendency with hardwoods is to retain the natural grain appearance, often resulting in under-application of coating, and subsequent earlier breakdown.
That said, some hardwoods can be very difficult to paint because they have an oily surface (see notes below). The key before application is to remove all surface oils using cellulose thinner and rinse with clean water
Prone to tannin bleed
Coloured timbers such as oak, Western red cedar and idigbo are prone to tannin bleed. Degrease with cellulose thinner and ensure the timber is thoroughly coated all round (with particular attention to end grains).
Contains acidic tannins which discolour with metal fixings
Hardwoods including Oak, Western Red Cedar and Idigbo. Degrease with cellulose thinners and avoid the use of steel (ferrous) fixings.
Contain oils/gums/extractives (slow drying and poor adhesion)
Hardwoods including Teak, Iroko and Keruing. Degrease with cellulose thinners and allow extra drying time.
Priming Options
- Ultra Primer
- Akvi Primer (Spray Only, Fast Drying)
Intermediate
- Multistop (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)
- Akvi Isolator (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)
Topcoat Options
- Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
- Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on the sheen level required
- Akvi Top DS25
Lacquering Options
- Kiva 10, Kiva 30, or Kiva 70, depending on the sheen level required
- Akvilac FD-J 10
If you require more advice on painting hardwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here.
