Painting or staining decking is a very common DIY task but one which can cause significant problems and ongoing maintenance issues if not done correctly. It must be noted when applying any paint or stain to decking that the slip resistance of the timber will change. In addition the traffic the deck receives has a direct impact on the longevity of the coating.  

• Wash down all timber thoroughly, treat mould and algae with Tikkurila mould removal solution and rinse with clean water

• Apply two coats of Tikkurila's decking oil:
  • Valtti Plus Terrace Oil                     (water-based)
  • Valtti Furniture and Decking Oil      (solvent-based)

or

• Apply two coats of Tikkurila's wood oil:
  • Valtti Wood Oil Plus                        (water-based)
  • Valtti Wood Oil                               (solvent-based)

The main difference in the 2 ranges noted above are the colours available. Tikkurila's decking oils are available in ready-made shades, while Valtti Wood Oils are available in a much wider range.

It should be noted that maintenance intervals on decking are expected to be between 1 and 2 years.

No matter how big or small your outdoor space is, an easy transformation or clever refresh can be achieved by simply painting your garden furniture. Have a few tired looking wooden chairs? It’s time to revive them

Step 1 Using a sanding block, sand around the surfaces of your wooden furniture. Make sure all the surfaces are dry, free from dirt, and that any previously treated wood is stripped back.

Step 2 Dust off all your newly sanded surfaces using a dusting brush.

Step 3 Prime with Ultra Primer, tinted to the same colour as your topcoat if possible 

Step 4 Apply the topcoat. Using your paintbrush start applying the colour evenly along the grain of the wood. We recommend choosing from one of the following in our range:

1. Ultra Matt
2. Ultra Classic
3. Valtti Opaque
4. Unica Akva
5. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel

Step 5 After completing the first coat, leave it to dry in accordance with the datasheet before applying a second coat.

Alternatively, our handy garden furniture kit includes everything you'll need

Lacquering

For lacquering your garden furniture follow the same steps but apply 2 coats of one of the following:

1. Unica Akva Lacquer (Water-based)
2. Unica Super Lacquer 20, Unica Super Lacquer 60, Unica Super Lacquer 90 (depending on sheen level required)

If you require more advice on painting your wooden garden furniture, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to our technical team.

Composite doors are made from a wide range of materials including PVC, wood, insulating foam and glass-reinforced plastic

Cleaning

Degrease, lightly key 400 grit, allow to cure hard for 10 days

Priming

Prime with Otex Adhesion Primer

Topcoat can be applied with either:

Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required

or Panssari Akva

If your garden furniture is looking a little beaten after a harsh winter outside or jostling for space in the shed, don’t throw it away - instead, give it a new lease of life with a fresh coat of paint

First, use a fungicidal wash or sterilising solution on the furniture to kill off algae and spores.  Household bleach will also do the trick equally well.

Wearing protective gloves, use a steel brush or scraper to remove loose and flaking paint to make a sound substrate for a new coat of paint. A clean, sharp scraper is very effective.

Use a sanding block and wet and dry abrasive paper to work on any unstable surfaces until a firm base is reached. Always wear a protective dust mask.

Thorough preparation is the key to a long-lasting paint finish. Scrub the garden furniture with hot water and detergent to remove any traces of grease and dust particles. Rinse with lots of clean water. Mop up surplus water with a sponge and leave to dry out completely before moving on to the next step.

To prime, use Tikkurila's solvent-based Rostex Super Metal Primer or our water-based Rostex Super Akva. Both can be applied straight onto bare metal garden furniture and are also appropriate if the metal is aluminium or an aluminium alloy.

Topcoat Options

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
2. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
3. Unica Akva

If you require more advice on painting metal garden furniture, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to our technical team.

Concrete is used in the UK on most exteriors, this can be a difficult substrate to paint as it absorbs paint, transports moisture and must be able to breathe.

Cleaning

Clean from all atmospheric, algae, mould contamination using Valtti Mould Removal Solution (1 part solution:4 parts water).

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)
3. Hydroblock WB  (Clear protection). Note, no primer is required before application of Hydroblock WB

Prepare the wood

You need to prepare the surface before you paint it.

For bare wood, use 120 grit sandpaper to sand in the direction of the woodgrain and smooth out the surface. This helps the paint stick to the surface.

Once the dust has settled, wipe down your door with white spirit.

If you spot any holes of cracks, fill them in and cover knots with knot blocker to stop them showing through your new paint.

For previously painted windows in a good condition, lightly sand it with 240 grit sandpaper. Once the dust has settled, wipe the surface down with white spirit.

For wooden windows with flaking, cracked or peeling paint, use 120 grit sandpaper to sand away the paint down to the bare wood. We recommend using an electric sander to make a quick job of it but you could use a flat scraper. Once the dust has settled, wipe it away with white spirit.

Before priming, clean the window frames using Tikkurila's Cleaning Agent to remove any grime and dirt.

Prime the wood

Apply your primer to the window and leave it to dry. Make sure you cover it thoroughly so your paint sticks consistently. We recommend our Ultra Primer

Apply the paint

Give your paint a really good stir so the colour pigments are thoroughly mixed. Apply the paint with a synthetic brush in the direction of the grain.

Leave it to dry as per the directions on the technical data sheet and apply a second coat.

Recommended options include:

1. Ultra Matt or Ultra Classic, depending on the sheen level required
2. Valtti Opaque
3. Unica Semi Gloss Enamel
4. Miranol 

If you require more advice on painting exterior window frames, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

How to paint an exterior door

Remove any metal fixtures and fittings including the numbers, door handle and post box. Clean the door using Tikkurila's Cleaning Agent to remove any grime and dirt.

Prepare the wood

You need to prepare the surface before you paint it.

For bare wood, use 120 grit sandpaper to sand in the direction of the woodgrain and smooth out the surface. This helps the paint stick to the surface.

Once the dust has settled, wipe down your door with white spirit.

If you spot any holes or cracks, fill them in and cover knots with a knot blocker to stop them from showing through your new paint.

For previously painted doors in a good condition, lightly sand it with 240 grit sandpaper. Once the dust has settled, wipe the surface down with white spirit.

For wooden doors with flaking, cracked or peeling paint, use 120 grit sandpaper to sand away the paint down to the bare wood. We recommend using an electric sander to make a quick job of it but you could use a flat scraper. Once the dust has settled, wipe it away with white spirit.

Prime the wood

Apply your primer to the door and leave it to dry. Make sure you cover it thoroughly so your paint sticks consistently. We recommend our Otex Adhesion Primer or Ultra Primer if a water-based solution is required

Apply the paint

Give your paint a really good stir so the colour pigments are thoroughly mixed. Apply the paint with a synthetic brush in the direction of the grain.

Leave it to dry as per the directions on the technical data sheet and apply a second coat.

Recommended options include:

1. Ultra Matt or Ultra Classic, depending on the sheen level required
2. Valtti Opaque
3. Unica Semi Gloss Enamel
4. Miranol 

Old metal railings,  and other exterior metalwork needs regular care and attention to prevent decay.

Regular finishing of ironwork and wrought iron such as railings and gates is essential to avoid rusting and decay caused by exposure to air and water.

Good preparation of the surface is essential and all loose paint and rust must be removed first.

1. Use a steel brush to get rid of all loose and old flaking layers of paint. This is important – the new paint won’t bond with the existing paint and protect the metal unless the railings are cleaned of loose rust and unsound paint. Brush away heavy algae growth and treat with a mould removal solution, then leave for 24 hours and rinse off.
2. Check the bottom of the railings, scrape away moss and clear away weeds. Sometimes there is a gap between the brick plinth and the bar at the bottom where debris can collect. This becomes a moisture trap encouraging corrosion as the metal never has the opportunity to dry out. Investigate and clean with the scraper.
3. Existing paintwork must be ‘keyed’ or roughened with medium-grade abrasive paper to create good adhesion for the new paint. Wet and dry paper used with water prevents the paper from ‘clogging’. Wet sanding is also advisable as it reduces dust. For a smooth finish rub around the edges to avoid ‘steps’ on the new paintwork.
4. Apply primer if required:
   1. Rostex Super Metal Primer (on new metal or spot prime on rusted areas)
   2. Temaprime EE (is galvanised or where subject to corrosion)
5. Apply topcoat x 2
   1. Unica Akva
   2. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
   3. Temalac FD 20, Temalac FD50 or Temalac FD80, depending on the sheen level required
   4. Miranol

If you require more advice on painting over metal fencing, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Aluminium is tricky to paint but if correct preparation is undertaken a solid and durable paint film can be achieved.

• Wash down with Tikkurila roof cleaning agent, ensure all areas of white rust (oxidation) are removed, along with grease and contamination. To remove white oxidation a fine grade non-metallic sandpaper can be used. 
• All surfaces must be dry. The temperature of the ambient air, surface or paint should not fall below + 5 ºC during application or drying. The surface temperature should remain at least 3°C above the dew point
• If previously painted, remove any loose and flaking coatings and feather off any edges.

To prime, use 1 coat of either Rostex Super Akva Primer, Otex Akva, Otex Adhesion Primer or Temprime EE

To topcoat, use 2 coats of either Unica Akva, Unica Semi Gloss Enamel, Panssari Akva or Panssarimaali

If you require more advice on painting aluminium, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here.

If it’s a high performance, decorative and high-end finish that provides a long-lasting, waterproofing and hard-wearing standard floor or non-slip finish for health and safety purposes, then Tikkurila stock a product to help you.

We have a wide range of industrial flooring solutions and floor paints for interior and exterior flooring needs, including road markings, internal epoxy resin floor paints, and floor paints suitable for warehouses, factories, prisons, schools, car parks and many other public-sector environments.

Due to the difficult nature of painting these floors, we encourage customers to contact our technical team or book a site visit. Send details of your project to our enquiries address.

Heat treat knots, remove biological contamination with mould removal, wash with clean water. Note: Resinous knots will bleed through paint film.

Prime surfaces once with Ultra Primer. Finish with either Ultra Matt or Ultra Classic 1-2 times (depending on sheen level required).

It is also possible to use Valtti Opaque for top coating if preferred.

Cement and sand are generally used in the UK on most exteriors, this can be a difficult substrate to paint as it absorbs paint, transports moisture and must be able to breathe.

Cleaning

Clean from all atmospheric, algae, mould contamination using Valtti Mould Removal Solution (1 part solution:4 parts water).

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)
3. Hydroblock WB  (Clear protection). Note, no primer is required before application of Hydroblock WB

Beech is a versatile cost effective and widely used hardwood in construction. When using beech externally it is essential the timber is coated in its entirety. As a relatively soft hardwood it is susceptible to moisture and insect attack and will also move significantly if it goes through cycles of saturation and drying.

• Beech is a hardwood it is always advisable to degrease the surface with Tikkurila cleaning agent in order to remove any wood oils that may be present 
• The surface to be painted must be dry, the temperature of air must be at least +5 °C and the relative humidity of air below 80 % during the application and drying. 
• Remove dirt, mould and loose particles from the surface. Wash down dirty and mouldy surfaces with Tikkurila Mould Removal solution according to the instructions 

Prime as early in the construction phase as possible. Protect rusting metal parts like nail heads with Rostex Super Akva metal primer. Remove loose resin from knots. Prime surfaces once with Ultra Primer. Finish with either Ultra Matt or Ultra Classic 1-2 times (depending on sheen level required). Treat the end grains carefully.

It is also possible to use Valtti Opaque for topcoating if preferred

Asphalt is a mixture of bitumen with crushed stone gravel or sand, used for paving, flooring, roofing

• Clean the surfaces from dirt, dust, moss and lichen. Use a high-pressure washer, avoiding damaging the substrate and structures. Use Valtti Mould removal solution, rinse carefully with clean water. 

The surface to be painted must be dry. The temperature of the air, paint and surface, during application, should be at least +15°C and the relative humidity of the air below 80 %. The surface must not be more than 3°C colder than the air. Do not use the paint when rain is expected.

For paving/flooring

1. Road Marking Paint

For roofing

1. Climate Cooler Flex
2. Isonit

If you require more advice on painting asphalt, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Concrete block is a simple substrate to coat it is very important to ensure all absorbency is evened out prior to application of topcoats. If this process is not completed correctly spread rates for finishing coats will be greatly reduced. 

Cleaning

Clean from all atmospheric, algae, mould contamination using Valtti Mould Removal Solution (1 part solution:4 parts water).

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer (1-2 coats Hydrosol Masonry Primer, primer coat should run off blockwork when it is adequately sealed)

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)
3. Hydroblock WB  (Clear protection). Note, no primer is required before application of Hydroblock WB

Painting exterior brickwork is a simple project. Whether you want a clear finish to prevent moisture ingress or a colour, providing some basic preparation is undertaken the end result will be easily achieved and solid

• Wash down all surfaces with the appropriate cleaning agent, areas of mould should be treated with Tikkurila mould removal solution. Surfaces must be clean, dry, and free from grease, dirt, salts, all loose material and surface contamination. 
• Ensure that surfaces to be painted are bonded to the substrates.  Re-render or repair any areas of failure, cracks, holes, etc., with either a suitable repair mortar or cement mortar.  
• Prime all new and old unpainted concrete and cement rendered substrates, all previously painted concrete and cement rendered surfaces that are in poor condition (i.e. porous or friable) 

 Engineering /hard glossy brick should be avoided – seek technical advice

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)
3. Hydroblock WB  (Clear protection). Note, no primer is required before application of Hydroblock WB

If you require more advice on painting brickwork, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

When you look to paint or refresh the external masonry on a house or building there are 2 things that will be achieved - the exterior will look revitalised and aesthetically pleasing, but also it will be protected from certain environmental elements.

Preparing masonry walls before painting

Preparation and planning before painting give you the best chance at achieving the required finish. External surfaces are rarely ready to be painted straight away; uneven areas, cracks or holes are all likely to be present and need to be tackled and prepped before you start applying paint. You should look to remove any loose or flaking paint, starting with a wire brush and then wash down to clean grime and smaller dust particles left behind.

Filling:

Before you start painting the outside masonry, you should fill any holes to the exterior using a good external filler. Take your time doing this so that you can ensure a good finish. It is worth noting that the filling used for any cracks and holes will usually shrink by the end of the preparation period. To compensate for this shrinkage, you will need to overfill the gaps with the materials. 

Smoothing and sanding:

There are a couple of instances where you may need to sand back, for a good finish. If you have had to overfill and holes or cracks, it’s likely that you will need to sand the excess back to give a level and smooth surface. Similarly, if there are any small areas that have cracked, you may be able to sand these down to leave a smooth finish.

Start with the coarser grain sandpaper (80 - 180 grit) and if you find small areas that are cracking, you can simply sand them back. You can then use a finer grit to give a smoother finish and seal.

Cleaning

If you find there are any mould growths present, these should be treated with surface cleaners. Ensure the mould had been completely removed and the area dry and clean before considering painting.

Priming

If you are working on a wall that has never been painted before, you will have to apply a priming coat

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)
3. Hydroblock WB  (Clear protection). Note, no primer is required before application of Hydroblock WB

You should expect to use at least two coats of paint. If the wall was previously painted, one layer of masonry paint may suffice.

If you require more advice on painting over lead, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here.

Mahogany is a durable yellowish-brown to reddish-brown usually moderately hard and heavy wood of a West Indian tree (Swietenia mahagoni) that is widely used for cabinetwork and fine finish work.

Painting mahogany wood can be a real challenge. When painting mahogany furniture in a light colour there will almost certainly be the matter of bleed through. You can prevent that if you take the proper precautions and use the right kind of products.

You may not think your substrate has grease and grime all over it but it's more than likely, it does. Make sure you thoroughly clean the wood with a grease remover (especially if it is a unit from the kitchen)! If you don't clean the mahogany properly then the paint may not stick properly and will flake away easily.

Interior

Priming Options

1. Otex Akva
2. Helmi Primer

Intermediate (Blocking Primers)

1. Multistop (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat). Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primers
2. Akvi Isolator (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)

Topcoat Options

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on the sheen level required
3. Empire Furniture Paint

Lacquering Options

1. Kiva 10, Kiva 30 or Kiva 70, depending on the sheen level required
2. Akvilac FD-J 10

Exterior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Otex Adhesion Primer

Intermediate

1. Pinja Flex Isolator (exterior blocking primer)

Topcoat Options

1. 1. Ultra Matt
   2. Ultra Classic
   3. Valtti Opaque
   4. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
   5. Unica Akva
   6. Valtti Teho
   7. Miranol

If you require more advice on painting over hardwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

In timber form, Oak is of course a hardwood. It is known for its golden yellowy-brown colouring but this has variations depending on origin and grade. 

You may not think your substrate has grease and grime all over it but it's more than likely, it does. Make sure you thoroughly clean the wood with a grease remover (especially if it is a unit from the kitchen)! If you don't clean the oak properly then the paint may not stick properly and will flake away easily.

Interior

Priming Options

1. Otex Akva
2. Helmi Primer

Intermediate (Blocking Primers)

1. Multistop (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat). Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primers
2. Akvi Isolator (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)

Topcoat Options

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on the sheen level required
3. Empire Furniture Paint

Lacquering Options

1. Kiva 10, Kiva 30 or Kiva 70, depending on the sheen level required
2. Akvilac FD-J 10

Exterior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Otex Adhesion Primer

Intermediate

1. Pinja Flex Isolator (exterior blocking primer)

Topcoat Options

1. 1. Ultra Matt
   2. Ultra Classic
   3. Valtti Opaque
   4. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
   5. Unica Akva
   6. Valtti Teho
   7. Miranol

If you require more advice on painting over hardwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

Pine is a durable wood that is often used to make furniture, panelling, and all sorts of other things. While pine isn’t tough to paint, it comes with a problem called colour bleeding. This is an issue especially with knotty pine since the knots leak more resin, leaving a stain. Stopping this resin can be very challenging. Blocking primers such as Multistop for interior wood or Pinja Flex Isolator for exterior can and do help, but heat sealing can provide a more effective solution:

1. Scrape away excess resin.
2. Heat knots with a heat gun and again scrape away excess resin.
3. Once complete, wash down all oily surfaces with cellulose thinner, then rinse with clean water.
4. Allow timber to settle

Once complete, prime with Ultra Primer.

Topcoat options for interior include:

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on the sheen level required
3. Empire Furniture Paint

Topcoat options for exterior include:

1. Ultra Matt
2. Ultra Classic
3. Valtti Opaque

If you require more advice on painting over knots or pine, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.