Substrates and Surfaces - Exterior

Stained, faded and marked PVC surfaces make a property appear rundown, affecting the attractiveness of businesses to customers and of rental properties to prospective tenant. PVC surfaces on a property include Pipework, Guttering, Doors, Windows, Soffits and facia boards

The fact is that uPVC and cPVC (PVC from here on) are difficult to paint, but can be painted by following the steps below.

The PVC surface to be painted must be clean, dry and free from anything that will interfere with the adhesion and application of the materials and coatings to be applied.

Remove loose and failing material through scraping or brushing with a stiff bristle brush to a sound edge, feathering this with a fine grade abrasive paper.

Remove all visible signs of organic growth and using Tikkurila Mould Removal Solution to treat areas before allowing them to dry.

Use methylated spirit to ensure the surface is free from any contaminants and anything that could interfere with adhesion, frequently changing the cloth, before priming overall with one full coat of Otex Adhesion Primer.

Apply the primer in accordance with the technical data sheet and allow to dry.

Finish with two full coats of Panssari Akva. Follow the minimum drying times (depending on conditions as per the technical data sheet) between coats.

Please note there are additional options available in our industrial range (for professional use only). Our range of two pack polyurethanes include two primer-finish products (Temadur 10 and 20).

The full range can be found here:

1. Temadur 10, Temadur 20, Temadur 50 or Temadur 90.

If you require more advice on painting PVC, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Roof painting can completely rejuvenate your roof

• Extend roof life by up to 15 years after a simple paint application
• Enjoy a cleaner roof with significantly less moss, mould and algae 
• Have a healthier drier roof that's water-resistant but still breathable
• Choose from a wide range of colours 
• Get a roof that'll stay brighter for longer by inhibiting the build up of dirt and grime

Choose from Tikkurila's Kilpi Roof Tile Paint or from our Isonit range (Isonit GL12, Isonit GL20 or Isonit GL50, depending on gloss grade required) which have high UV stability and high end colour pigments to endure the relentless sun and weather exposure on a roof.

1. Ensure the roof is cleaned and dried properly, stopping the paint from peeling off. (A thorough clean with high pressure and using Tikkurila's Iso A Clean is as important as the actual painting. Well prepared surfaces ensure great adherence and long lasting durability.)
2. Uses a good biocide to kill off any algae and moss spores prior to painting
3. Uses two coats of topcoat

Note: It is advantageous to prime fibre cement roofs with Eternit Primer in order to obtain a durable surface.

If you require more advice on painting roof tiles, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Tikkurila have two clear products suitable for protecting driveways and paving, Hydroblock WB & ProCover WB.

ProCover WB penetrates the substrate providing a water and grease and oil repellent surface that inhibits the growth of algae and atmospheric contamination.

If you require more advice on painting your driveway or paving, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Generally speaking, garage doors are made from either steel or aluminium metals or certain species of wood.

• Clean down as required using Tikkurila Cleaning agent or similar to remove any grease oil or other contamination.
• If previously painted, remove any loose, flaking paint with a scraper and feather off any edges.
• Sand hard, glossy and industrially painted surfaces matt. Remove sanding dust. Fill holes and cracks and sand the filled parts.

Metal Doors:

Primer – Rostex Super Akva (WB), Rostex Super Metal Primer (SB)

Topcoat – Panssari Akva, Everal Aqua 10, 40, 80

Wooden Doors:

Primer – Ultra Primer, Otex Adhesion Primer

Topcoat – Valtti Opaque, Ultra Classic, Ultra Matt

For Staining:

Primer if required - Valtti Primer 

Topcoat options

Valtti Color – non film forming matt

Valtti Plus Kesto – film-forming semi matt

Idigbo Timber is a yellow-brown hardwood that is often used for joinery, windows or doors, and interior fittings. Both light and relatively durable, this wood is often used as a less expensive alternative to oak.

• Idigbo contains highly water-soluble extractives which exhibit themselves as a yellow/green staining on light coloured paint finishes.
• Dark tannins will leach out of the timber onto surrounding substrates such as masonry if the timber is not properly coated.
• Specialist stain inhibiting primers are required when painting this species.
• Coarse grain structure can cause trapped air in drying paint films leading to bubbles

Interior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Akvi Primer (Spray Only, Fast Drying)

Intermediate (Blocking Primers)

1. Multistop (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat). Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primers
2. Akvi Isolator (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)

Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primers

Topcoat Options

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on the sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on the sheen level required
3. Akvi Top DS25

Lacquering Options

1. Kiva 10, Kiva 30 or Kiva 70, depending on the sheen level required
2. Akvilac FD-J 10

Exterior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Pinja Flex Combi 25

Intermediate

1. Pinja Flex Isolator (exterior blocking primer)

Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primer

Topcoat Options

1. 1. Ultra Matt
   2. Ultra Classic
   3. Valtti Opaque
   4. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
   5. Unica Akva
   6. Valtti Teho
   7. Pinja Flex Combi 25

If you require more advice on painting over hardwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

Knots bleed through paint. It's frustrating and leaves an unattractive finish. It occurs when resins seep to the surface and cause discolouration. Stopping this resin can be very challenging. Blocking primers such as Multistop for interior wood or Pinja Flex Isolator for exterior can and do help, but heat sealing can provide a more effective solution:

1. Scrape away excess resin.
2. Heat knots with a heat gun and again scrape away excess resin.
3. Once complete, wash down all oily surfaces with cellulose thinner, then rinse with clean water.
4. Allow timber to settle

Once complete, prime with Ultra Primer.

Topcoat options include:

1. Ultra Matt
2. Ultra Classic
3. Valtti Opaque

If you require more advice on painting over knots, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to our technical team.

K Rend is often used in the external insulation business as a catch-all term for render but is in fact a brand with a large range of various renders. K Rend render is a water-repellent, breathable solution – low maintenance and available in most colours. To repaint, follow the steps below:

Cleaning

Clean from all atmospheric, algae, mould contamination using Valtti Mould Removal Solution (1 part solution:4 parts water).

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect
2. Finngard Opaque (High-performance option)

If you require more advice on painting over K-Rend, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to our technical team.

Engineered Logs are timbers that are glued with non-toxic and environmentally friendly waterproof adhesive and pressed together under a regulated pressure rating until they bond as one solid piece of wood, i.e. a laminated log.

This multi-layered log is stronger and more durable than a traditional solid log. A laminated log home will be less subject to the wear and tear of time and the elements. This added value will keep maintenance costs to a minimum, and consequently save you money.

Interior

Painting log surfaces causes headaches for many log home builders. The whole idea of a log house is ruined if you choose the wrong, non-breathable paint for the surface. For this reason, translucent treatment agents – oils, waxes and various pigmented protections – are common on the inside surfaces of log houses. Tikkurila recommend Paneeli-Ässä Log Protection. For a more opaque finish, apply several layers of the translucent shade over the log surface. In translucent shades, the final colour is always influenced by the colour and porosity of the wood and the number of times it is applied. So it is worth doing a test patch!

Exterior

Putting paint on the exterior of your log cabin is not recommended. Your wooden house has to breathe and you cannot let moisture get trapped within your wood. So we always recommend using a high-quality wood stain, like Valtti Plus Kesto. When it comes to painting/staining the exterior of log cabins, we always recommend getting in touch with our technical team for further advice.

Give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to them here.

If you have new or unpainted lead we do not recommend painting it due to 2 reasons:

1. Paint often peels off lead because the lead oxidises, this means the lead has a chemical reaction with the oxygen in the air, this lifts the paint and leaves a white powder on the surface.
2. Another reason for paint peeling is the lead expands and contracts with the heat, this can crack the painted surface, allowing moisture or water in and lifting the paint.

If you require more advice on painting over lead, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here.

For exterior walls that are old and damp, Limewash is a very traditional finish, used to decorate and protect porous stone and lime-rendered surfaces. Like Distemper, Limewash is a breathable finish. Unlike paint, limewash penetrates the surface and the colour is built up by applying successive coats. Limewash must be overcoated with lime wash. Unfortunately, Tikkurila do not have a suitable product to overcoat exterior limewash.

Note: Finngard Opaque & Finngard Silicone Protect are not suitable to go over limewash.

If you require more advice on painting over external limewash, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here.

Painting limestone can give your masonry a bright, new look. Limestone is a sedimentary rock formed of highly alkaline calcites, so thorough preparation is an essential first step before painting limestone. The prospect of painting limestone masonry may be daunting at first, but you can achieve an excellent finish by treating the rock with a specialist cleaner and an alkaline-inhibiting paint primer.

Cleaning & Preparation

Clean from all atmospheric, algae, mould contamination using Valtti Mould Removal Solution (1 part solution:4 parts water).

Scrub the surface with a stiff brush to remove any loose materials or dust. Start at the top of the wall and work your way down. Leave the surface to dry.

Priming

1. Hydrosol Masonry Primer

For flat limestone surfaces, use a regular paintbrush. For craggy or highly textured limestone surfaces, use a paint roller. Take care to dab the primer/sealer into all crevices. Using a primer/sealer helps coats of paint stick to the surface and prevents moisture and water damage. You may need to apply two coats of primer/sealer. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying the second.

Topcoat Options

1. Finngard Silicone Protect

Paint the treated limestone surface with our masonry paint, using either a regular paintbrush for flat surfaces or a medium-nap paint roller for textured and rough surfaces. You will need to apply more than one coat of masonry paint. Wait for the first coat to dry before applying the final coat.

Note: we always recommend conducting a test on a small area before painting limestone

If you require more advice on painting over limestone give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message to our technical team.

Prepare surfaces by ensuring they are clean and dry, free from anything that can interfere with the application or adhesion of materials and Tikkurila products to be applied, removing loose and failing material by scraping or brushing with a stiff bristle brush to a sound edge.

Feather the sound edges with a fine grade abrasive paper, removing all visible signs of organic growth and using Tikkurila Mould Removal Solution to treat areas before allowing them to dry.

Use methylated spirit to ensure the surface is free from any contaminants and anything that could interfere with adhesion, frequently changing the cloth, before priming overall with one full coat of Otex Adhesion Primer.

Apply the primer in accordance with the technical data sheet and allow it to dry.

Finish with two full coats of Panssari Akva. Follow the minimum drying times (depending on conditions as per the technical data sheet) between coats.

Plastic is a tricky substrate to paint and we always recommend consulting our technical team for specific advice related to application and suitability. Please give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

Powder coating is a type of coating that is applied as a free-flowing, dry powder. Unlike conventional liquid paint which is delivered via an evaporating solvent, powder coating is typically applied electrostatically and then cured under heat or with ultraviolet light. These surfaces are tough to cover over as conventional paints won’t adhere to the surface

Surface Preparation

Clean down the surface and ensure it is dry and free from anything that could interfere or affect adhesion of the primer and materials to be applied. Remove loose and failing material from the surface through scraping or brushing, using a stiff-bristled brush, to a sound edge before feathering with a fine-grade abrasive paper.

Remove all visible signs of organic growth and use Tikkurila's mould removal solution, to treat the affected areas and allow to dry.

If any sound paint remains, clean the area down with Tikkurila's cleaning solution to remove any remaining contaminants and rinse with clean water thoroughly before allowing the surface to dry.

Priming

Prime all over with one full coat of Temaprime EE

Tikkurila's range of two pack polyurethane coatings, Temadur 10 and Temadur 20 are also suitable for priming but are recommended for professional use only

Decoration

If topcoating over Temaprime EE, there are a wide range of interior and exterior products that can be used

If the Temadur range has been used for priming, it should also be used for topcoat.

1. Temadur 10, Temadur 20, Temadur 50 or Temadur 90, our range of 2 pack polyurethanes

If you require more advice on painting over powder coated surfaces, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Resinous softwoods tend to to grow in cold or milder weather regions and are considered an ideal material due toheir excellent mechanical resistance. These types of woof are one of the most commonly used in carpentry and construction projects. The most popular are pine, fir and larch which all come with a problem called colour bleeding. This is an issue especially with knotty softwoods since the knots leak more resin, leaving a stain. Stopping this resin can be very challenging. Blocking primers such as Multistop for interior wood or Pinja Flex Isolator for exterior can and do help, but heat sealing can provide a more effective solution:

1. Scrape away excess resin.
2. Heat knots with heat gun and again scrape away excess resin.
3. Once complete, wash down all oily surfaces with cellulose thinner, then rinse with clean water.
4. Allow timber to settle

Once complete, prime with Ultra Primer.

Topcoat options for interior include:

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on sheen level required
3. Empire Furniture Paint

Topcoat options for exterior include:

1. Ultra Matt
2. Ultra Classic
3. Valtti Opaque

If you require more advice on painting over softwoods such as pine, fir or larch, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

Elm is a coarse grained hardwood which is moderately hard and very tough – good at resisting splitting under stress so useful for items like chairs where great strength is needed in small sections and joints cut close to ends of boards but commonly used for all kinds of furniture.

The key before the application is to remove all surface oils using cellulose thinner and rinse with clean water

Interior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Akvi Primer (Spray Only, Fast Drying)

Intermediate (Blocking Primers)

1. Multistop (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat). Due to the dark tannins in Idigbo, we recommend 2 coats of our blocking primers
2. Akvi Isolator (ensure left to dry for 24 hours before topcoat)

Topcoat Options

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on sheen level required
3. Akvi Top DS25

Lacquering Options

1. Kiva 10, Kiva 30 or Kiva 70, depending on sheen level required
2. Akvilac FD-J 10

Exterior

Priming Options

1. Ultra Primer
2. Pinja Flex Combi 25

Intermediate

1. Pinja Flex Isolator (exterior blocking primer)

Topcoat Options

1. 1. Ultra Matt
   2. Ultra Classic
   3. Valtti Opaque
   4. Unica Semi-Gloss Enamel
   5. Unica Akva
   6. Valtti Teho
   7. Pinja Flex Combi 25

If you require more advice on painting over hardwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

The key to restoring rusty metal is to properly prep the rusty steel before you paint. A little work up front will yield long lasting results.

The first step is to clean off loose rust and flaking paint and then apply a rust-inhibitive primer. You don't need to get down to bare, shiny metal—just clean off the flakes and powdery surface rust that prevent paint from adhering. However, badly rusted metal areas need more prep work.

Start with a wire brush. Scrub partially rusted metal areas with a wire brush to remove flakes and powdery surface rust.

If the area is heavily rusted and pitted and wire brushing by hand is ineffective, use a drill with a wire wheel. Grind down heavily rusted metal spots faster with a wire wheel and a drill or angle grinder.

Once prepared, wash down all areas with Tikkurila roof cleaning agent, 1 Part Solution: 4 parts water (depending on degree of contamination) this can be applied by brush or rag. If possible power wash and rinse with clean water. 

Priming Options

• Rostex Super Metal Primer
• Rostex Super Akva
• Temaprime EE  (Temaprime EE preferred on corroded surfaces)

Topcoat Options

• Panssari Akva (water-based option)
• Panssarimaali  (solvent-based option)

If you require more advice on painting over rusted areas, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Painting adds an extra level of protection between the steel and the elements, which will slow down any corrosion and improve the lifespan of the container. A good coat of quality paint will also improve the appearance of the container, especially important if on view to your visitors and customers.

You can apply paint with a simple brush, or using a spray machine. If using a spray, you will need to add thinners to the paint. Start by removing any surface dirt, paint flakes and rust cobs. For best possible results you can sand the surface of the container to ensure it is as smooth as possible (this we advise only offers a cosmetic improvement). We would recommend masking off the door seals and locking bars/rods for a great finish, but these can be painted over if required. If you are planning to ship the container at any point you will need to leave the various markings and the metal CSC data plate on show. Otherwise (if not exporting) these can be painted over, or, for a better finish, removed altogether before painting. These can be tricky to remove, particularly from older containers. We suggest using a little heat from a mini blowtorch or similar to soften the adhesive and carefully peeling or scraping off.

Primer

1. Temaprime EE
2. Temalac FD20, or Temalac FD50 from our industrial range of single pack alkyds.
3. Temadur 10, or Temadur 20 from our industrial range of 2 pack polyurethanes

Topcoats

1. Temalac FD20, Temalac FD50 or Temalac FD80, from our industrial range of single pack alkyds.
2. Temadur 10, Temadur 20, Temadur 50 or Temadur 90, from our industrial range of 2 pack polyurethanes

If you require more advice on painting the exterior of shipping containers, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Softwoods usually grow quicker than hardwoods and are cheaper, softer and easier to work. They are often used to make furniture, paneling, and all sorts of other things. While softwoods aren't tough to paint, they comes with a problem called colour bleeding. This is an issue especially with knotty softwoods since the knots leak more resin, leaving a stain. Stopping this resin can be very challenging. Blocking primers such as Multistop for interior wood or Pinja Flex Isolator for exterior can and do help, but heat sealing can provide a more effective solution:

1. Scrape away excess resin.
2. Heat knots with heat gun and again scrape away excess resin.
3. Once complete, wash down all oily surfaces with cellulose thinner, then rinse with clean water.
4. Allow timber to settle

Once complete, prime with Ultra Primer.

Topcoat options for interior include:

1. Everal Aqua 10, Everal Aqua 40 or Everal Aqua 80, depending on sheen level required
2. Helmi 10, Helmi 30 or Helmi 80, depending on sheen level required
3. Empire Furniture Paint

Topcoat options for exterior include:

1. Ultra Matt
2. Ultra Classic
3. Valtti Opaque

If you require more advice on painting over softwoods, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send a message here.

Stove Enameling is a process is based on liquid paints which are cured by oven baking. It normally requires several coats and a high level of skill, particularly when applying special finishes such as hammers, wrinkles and spatter finishes. Powder coating has largely replaced this traditional coating technique.

Unfortunately, Tikkurila do not have an appropriate system for overcoating stove enamels.

If you would like to discuss your specific projects requirements further, please give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here

Teak wood is a dense, close-grained type of hardwood that is sourced from the Tectona grandis tree, native to south and southeast Asia. Teak is originally golden in colour and has a smooth grain and texture.

One of the reasons for using teak, especially for outdoor furniture, is its abundance of natural oils. The oils prevent rot and give the wood a shiny patina, but they also inhibit paint adhesion and can bleed through finishes, so painting teak isn't recommended. You may have some success, though, if the wood is old and weathered. See our guide to painting hardwoods for further details.

One of the most common questions that arises in relation to teak outdoor furniture is whether or not it should be oiled.

Unlike some wooden garden furniture sets which do benefit from an application of a treatment product, teak's natural oils mean that this is generally not necessary. There is simply no need to oil your teak garden furniture.

If you require more advice on painting or oiling teak, give our technical team a call on 0131 334 4999 or send them a message here